Farewell Mr Puffin: A small boat voyage to Iceland

Description

The puffin is the joker amongst the seabirds of the north Atlantic, but what is happening to this much-loved bird is far from a laughing matter. This is the conclusion of writer and broadcaster, Paul Heiney, who set sail from the east coast of England bound for Iceland, propelled by a desire to breathe the cool, clear air of the high latitudes - which he loves - but also to follow in the wake of generations of sailors who have made this often treacherous journey since the 13th century. In the small coastal town where he lives, aged faces of long-gone seafarers stare down from the walls of the museum, urging him onwards. The northern air gave him a new clarity of vision, and in almost every harbour he tripped over maritime history and anecdote, and came face to face with some of his own past as he sailed north along his childhood coastline of east Yorkshire. He imagined the terrified monks as the first Viking invaders appeared over the horizon; on Orkney the legend of Saint Magnus inspired him, on the Faroes he struggled with the rights and wrongs of the islands' whale hunters. With the typical good humour which ran through his last book for Bloomsbury, 'One Wild Song', Heiney writes about the ups and downs of voyaging under sail, his rib-crunching fall from the harbour wall on Iceland's remote north coast, the failure of the heater as the Arctic Circle was crossed, the perils of facing Iceland's idea of fast food - half a sheep's head - and the capture, confrontation and eventual devouring of a cod five feet long. But there was one major thing missing from this voyage - the sight of puffins. They are remarkable birds, spending the entire winter in the tumultuous north Atlantic before returning to the same nest and mate every year when the spring comes. And with them comes something as uplifting as a ray of sunshine after a storm. The puffin has a reputation as the joker of the seas, the clown of the bird world, and to see them and share their waters was also part of Heiney's ambition. Imagine then his disappointment when, first, no puffins appeared off the Farne Islands, then none to be seen on puffin hotspots like Orkney. At first he thought he was just unlucky, and he is certainly no ornithologist, and thought his amateur observation might be at fault. But when he failed to see puffins on Iceland, it was the last straw, and he started to become seriously concerned. Puffins are in decline everywhere, he discovered, and there is a multiplicity of reasons why that might be. Heiney senses that a new chapter is about to be written, and it is one in which we may have to say farewell to the puffin forever. This is book is rich in travel and sailing narrative, natural and social history, and with a strong undercurrent of good humour. It provides not only an insight into the private life of the puffin, but an honest portrait of human life on the ocean waves, as well as a reflection on what we might lose if the puffin disappears from our icy northern waters.

Paul Heiney is a well known writer and broadcaster (TV presenter of That's Life and Countrywise) with seafaring in his blood. His family, originally from Yorkshire, were beach fishermen and lifeboatmen. He has sailed enthusiastically for over 25 years, making many singlehanded passages. He is the author of One Wild Song and Ocean Sailing.

It would be hard to imagine a more thoughtful, intelligent and companionable person to go to sea with than Paul Heiney. -- Bill Bryson High comedy on the high seas. Informative and warm and freezing. It's quite a combination. -- Griff Rhys Jones Funny and perceptive * Country Life * An exciting read... Heiney's chatty, 'warts and all' narrative style lends especial charm to the tale, giving you the feeling that he is retelling his story over a pint in front of a log fire. -- David Schuster * On: Yorkshire Magazine * A consummate storyteller... being at sea and overcoming the challenges of time, tide and stormy weather make this an entertaining and informative read. * Towpath Talk * A captivating and humorous travel narrative, Farewell Mr Puffin is rich with the natural, social and maritime history of many ports of call, and the lives of folks inhabiting these remote places. * Windcheck Magazine * This book, infused with humour, anecdotes and stacks of maritime history, is a travel writer's love letter to one of the world's most popular seabirds together with observations of the simplest pleasures to be found at sea. * Coast Magazine * A tonic for the sailing reader's soul: part adventure, part travelogue, part character study and all heart. Heiney wraps it all up in the perfect package. * Sailing Magazine * A very enjoyable read...I would very highly recommend it. * Shipping Magazine * The maritime counterpart to Bill Bryson: by turns evocative, entertaining and though-provoking. * Practical Boat Owner * A good-humoured portrait of life on the ocean waves. * Bury and West Suffolk Magazine * This ode to life at sea by writer and broadcaster Paul Heiney will have you dreaming of Iceland's storied shores from which he set sail while searching for the iconic puffins. Though Heiney fails to see his beloved birds, he finds meaning as he reflects on his travels, peppered throughout with maritime history and humor. * Newsweek * Humorous and thoughtful, Paul skilfully tells stories of encounters with people and places, painting a vivid picture of his journey. In Farewell Mr Puffin he weaves together the history of the lands with a story of altered biodiversity, and paints a picture of an ever challenging and changing landscape and adaptable peoples. * Flying Fish * An entertaining, well-written and very readable book for all sailors. -- Christine Holroyd * Cruising Association * Paul's joy of the sea, wildlife and sailing knowledge shine through in this delightful trip around northern waters. * Lifeboat Magazine * The book contains excellent advice and humorous observations for those sailing to Iceland: finding protected anchorages, weather forecasts, clearing in, staying warm, and the cost of basic supplies. * Cruising World *