Fashion under Fascism: Beyond the Black Shirt

Description

When we think of Italian fashion, Gucci, Max Mara and the meteoric rise of Prada immediately spring to mind. But Italian fashion has a dark history that has not previously been explored. The Fascism of 1930s Italy dominated more than just politics - it spilled over into modes of dress. Fashion under Fascism is the first book to consider this link in detail.Fashion often functions as a tacit means of making a social statement, but under Mussolini it vividly reflected political tyranny. Ones allegiance to the regime was choreographed by the dictatorship with the intent of creating a new national consciousness. Women in particular were manipulated through fashion ideals to create an authentic Italian femininity. Paulicelli explores the subtle yet sinister changes to the seemingly innocuous practices of everyday dress and shows why they were such a concern for the state. Importantly, she also demonstrates how these developments impacted on the global dominance of Italian fashion today.This fascinating book includes interviews with major designers, such as Fernanda Gattinoni and Micol Fontana, and sheds new light on the complicated relationship between style and politics.

Eugenia Paulicelli is Associate Professor of Italian and Comparative Literature, Queens College and the Graduate School, City University of New York.

'an excellent contribution to the history of Italian fashion and culture in the first half of the 20th century...The book could be used by undergraduate and postgraduate students of Italian studies, cultural and women's studies, and history. It should also appeal to anyone attracted to fashion as a cultural and social phenomenon.' Times Higher Education Supplement 'A vivid account of the Italian garment business before and during Fascist rule' London Review of Books 'This book addresses a variety of important subjects with a deft and illuminating touch. The first study of its kind in English, it is a stimulating examination of Italian fashion in the fascist period that makes excellent use of historical and cultural sources.' Stephen Gundle, Royal Holloway College, University of London 'With her considerable background in comparative literature ... Paulicelli is at her best when analyzing various kinds of text ... For such a short book ... Fashion under Fascism is packed with details.' Vince Carducci, www.popmatters.com/books/reviews/f/fashion-under-fascism.shtml 'Readers unfamiliar with the history of fashion will learn a great deal from this book as it complicates our understanding of politics and cultural nation building by taking seriously the contributions of style to Mussolini's regime.' Carol Helstosky, Journal of Modern History 'Eugenia Paulicelli's Fashion under Fascism is an example of teh growing interest encountered by the history of fashion, especially when it is analysed with a wider perspective than that of strict costume history.' Francesca Polese, Business History