"Fashion": Aperture 216

Description

In collaboration with Inez & Vinoodh, an exploration of visionary fashion photography. The theme for Aperture's Fall 2014 issue is "Fashion," produced in collaboration with the groundbreaking fashion-photography duo Inez & Vinoodh. The issue explores the role of image quotation and reference, and showcases contemporary and historical work from both inside and outside the field of fashion, as well as key touchstones, including breakthrough magazines and advertisements. In the Words section, Donatien Grau considers Inez & Vinoodh's long-standing collaboration; "Vogue Paris" editor-in-chief Emmanuelle Alt in conversation with Penny Martin, editor of The Gentlewoman; curator Charlotte Cotton on the State of Fashion; Alistair O'Neill considers how the documentary tradition has influenced the work of many fashion photographers; and Marketa Uhlirova looks at how contemporary fashion films reference still photography. The Pictures section presents Tamara Berghmans on the influential Dutch photographer Ed van der Elsken; Jason Evans on Shiseido's beguiling vintage ads; Inez & Vinoodh on photographs that have served as references for painting, plus notes on the icons of fashion photography; Phil Bicker on pioneering fashion magazines i-D, The Face and Jill; and emerging fashion photographers Margaret Durow and Daniel Arnold.

Inez & Vinoodh are among the most celebrated and influential photographers working within the fashion and art worlds today. In the early 1990s, they developed a signature style of visual seduction paired with provocative narratives, which infused new ideas into photography, and often upended gender conventions. They have created groundbreaking editorials for such publications as American, French, Japanese, and Italian Vogue; V Magazine; Visionaire; The Gentlewoman; W Magazine; and the New York Times Magazine, for which they recently photographed Chelsea Manning. Their innovative approach is also seen in campaigns and films for major fashion houses and their work has been exhibited in galleries and museums internationally including the Stedelijk Museum in Amsterdam; Van Gogh Museum, Amsterdam; the Hayward Gallery, London; and the Whitney Museum of American Art in New York. Inez & Vinoodh are featured on the cover of Aperture's publication Fashion Photography: The Story in 180 Pictures.